Plumbing Contractor Serving Southwest Florida

Repairs, repipes, water heaters, remodels and new construction plumbing for homes and businesses in Lee, Charlotte and Collier Counties.

  • Homes and businesses. Repairs, leaks, drains, water heaters, repipes, remodels and new construction.
  • Local office. 3903 Dr Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, Suite A, Fort Myers.
  • Permits handled. We pull the permits and schedule the inspections on the work we do.
  • Straight answers. We look at the problem first, then tell you what it needs and what your options are.

Popular services

Leak Detection Slab Leaks Drain Cleaning Water Heaters Tankless Repiping Sewer Lines Water Softeners Gas Lines Well Pumps

Serving 14 communities across Lee, Charlotte and Collier Counties, including Fort Myers, Cape Coral, Naples and Estero. See all service areas.

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    Plumbing Services

    Residential Plumbing

    Leaks, clogs, water heaters, repipes, bathrooms and kitchens.

    Commercial Plumbing

    Service, repairs and upgrades for commercial buildings.

    New Construction

    Underground, rough-in and trim-out for new homes and commercial builds.

    Renovations

    Moving, replacing and adding plumbing during a remodel.

    Plumbing in Southwest Florida

    HomeFlow Plumbing LLC does residential and commercial plumbing in Lee, Charlotte and Collier Counties. Most calls are the everyday stuff: a leak under the sink, a toilet that won’t stop running, a water heater that quit. We also take on bigger jobs, like repiping a house, replacing a sewer line, or plumbing a new build from the slab up.

    A lot of homes around here were built in the ’70s and ’80s, sit on a concrete slab, and run on hard water. That combination is hard on pipes and water heaters. If you’re not sure what’s causing a problem, call and describe it, and we’ll tell you what we think it is and what it takes to fix.

    Water Heaters

    When a water heater goes, you notice fast. We repair and replace tank water heaters and install tankless units.

    Hard water is the main thing that shortens a water heater’s life around here. Minerals settle at the bottom of the tank, the burner or elements work harder, and eventually the tank starts to leak. A tank leaking from the bottom can’t be repaired, only replaced. If yours is making noise, running out of hot water early, or is more than about 10 years old, have it looked at before it picks its own day to fail.

    Thinking about going tankless? You get hot water on demand and free up floor space, but the switch often needs a bigger gas line, a dedicated circuit, or new venting. We’ll look at your setup and tell you what it involves.

    Repiping Older Homes

    If your house was built between the ’60s and the ’90s, there’s a good chance some of the original pipe is still in the walls. That could be galvanized steel, cast iron drains, or polybutylene.

    Galvanized rusts from the inside and chokes down your water pressure. Polybutylene gets brittle and can split without warning. Once a house starts having leak after leak, fixing them one at a time gets expensive. Repiping replaces the supply lines through the whole house, usually with PEX, so you’re not waiting on the next one.

    Drains and Sewer Lines

    One slow drain is usually a local clog. Several drains backing up at once, gurgling toilets, or a sewer smell in the yard usually point to the main line.

    Roots, grease and old cast iron that has cracked or scaled over are the usual causes. We clear clogs and repair or replace sewer lines. If your part of Cape Coral is being switched from septic to city sewer, we can also run the connection from the house to the new line.

    Leaks and Slab Leaks

    Some leaks are obvious. Others show up as a water bill that doesn’t make sense or a warm spot on the tile.

    Most homes here are built on a concrete slab, so a leak under the floor can go on for a long time before you see any water. If you think you have one, turn off every faucet and appliance and look at your water meter. If it’s still moving, water is going somewhere. Call us and we’ll find it.

    More on all of this on our residential plumbing page.

    Commercial Plumbing

    For a business, the goal is getting things working again with as little downtime as possible. We handle repairs, drains, water heaters and water lines for commercial buildings, plus plumbing for tenant build-outs and remodels.

    We work with owners, property managers and general contractors. More on commercial plumbing.

    Remodels and New Construction

    Remodel plumbing is mostly planning. Moving a toilet or shower on a slab means cutting concrete, so the layout decisions you make early drive the cost. Pick your fixtures before rough-in and you’ll avoid most of the surprises.

    On new construction, we handle the plumbing from underground through rough-in, trim-out and final inspection, for homes and commercial buildings. See renovations and new construction.

    Need a General Contractor Too?

    Our sister company, Miniopolis Builders, handles general contracting in Southwest Florida under Florida Certified General Contractor license CGC1531810. If your project goes past plumbing, like a full remodel, an addition or a new home, Miniopolis can run the build while HomeFlow handles the plumbing.

    Keeping both under one roof means fewer handoffs between contractors, and the plumbing gets planned alongside the framing, slab and finish schedule instead of squeezed in around them. Tell us about your project when you call (239) 518-4198, or go straight to miniopolisbuilders.com.

    What People Call Us For

    • Leaks and pipe repair
    • Clogged drains and drain cleaning
    • Sewer line repair and replacement
    • Water line and water main repair
    • Water heater repair and replacement
    • Tankless water heaters
    • Whole-house and PEX repiping
    • Toilets, faucets, showers and tubs
    • Kitchen plumbing and garbage disposals
    • Remodel and new construction plumbing

    How a Typical Southwest Florida House Is Plumbed

    Most houses around here sit on a concrete slab, with no basement and no crawlspace. That matters more than people expect. Supply and drain lines run under the slab, inside the walls, or up through the attic, depending on when the house was built and whether it’s been repiped. When a pipe under the slab starts leaking, you usually can’t see it, and finding it takes leak detection, not guesswork.

    Where the water heater usually sits

    In a lot of homes the water heater is in the garage. Others have it in an interior utility closet, a laundry room, or now and then the attic. A tank inside the living space needs a working drain pan with a clear place to drain, because a failure there lands on drywall and flooring instead of a garage floor. If you don’t know how old yours is or where the pan drains, find out before it gives out. Our water heater and tankless water heater pages cover the options.

    Main shutoff and cleanouts

    The water meter is usually near the street or at the edge of the lot, and the utility’s valve is there. Many homes also have a house-side shutoff where the line comes up near the foundation, often by the garage or an outside hose bib. Sewer cleanouts are the capped pipes sticking up out of the ground near the house or out in the yard. Find both now, on a calm day. You won’t want to be hunting for them with water on the floor.

    The First Ten Minutes of a Leak or Backup

    What you do right away often decides how much damage there is. Here’s the order we’d suggest.

    • Shut off the water. Use the valve under the sink or behind the toilet if the leak is there. If you can’t isolate it, close the main.
    • Turn off the water heater. Flip the breaker on an electric unit, or set a gas unit to pilot or off. A heater running with the water off can be damaged.
    • Keep water and electricity apart. If water is near outlets, cords or the panel, stay out of it. Only shut off breakers if you can reach them from a dry spot.
    • Stop using drains during a backup. Every flush, shower or load of laundry adds to what’s coming up.
    • Take photos and move rugs, boxes and furniture off the wet floor.

    A few things we’d avoid: pouring chemical drain cleaner into a line that’s already backing up, forcing a stuck valve with a pipe wrench until something snaps, and cleaning up sewage without gloves. Once things are under control, call us at (239) 518-4198 or send a request through our contact page.

    Signs a Small Problem Is Turning Into a Big One

    Most plumbing failures give some warning first. The trick is catching it.

    • A water bill that keeps climbing with no change in how you use water
    • The leak indicator on the meter moving while everything in the house is off
    • A warm spot on a tile floor, or the sound of running water when nothing is on
    • Rusty or cloudy hot water, or popping and rumbling from the tank
    • Several drains slowing down at once, or a toilet gurgling when the tub drains
    • Sewer odor outside near a cleanout or inside near a floor drain
    • Pinhole leaks showing up in more than one place

    One slow drain is usually a local clog. Several at once points further down, toward the main or the sewer line. Repeat pinholes usually mean the pipe itself is wearing out, and patching one spot at a time stops making sense. At that point repiping is worth a look.

    City Water, Wells and Septic in Lee, Charlotte and Collier

    Not every house here is on the same kind of system, and that changes what can go wrong. Much of the region runs on municipal water and sewer. Plenty of homes still don’t.

    In Cape Coral, the city has been extending water and sewer into neighborhoods that were built on wells and septic, so homes a few streets apart can have different setups. Lehigh Acres has a lot of homes on private wells and septic tanks. Rural and older parts of Charlotte and Collier counties are a mix as well.

    Here’s why it matters. On a well, low pressure can be a pump or pressure tank issue and not a pipe problem at all. On septic, a slow house can mean a full tank or a struggling drainfield instead of a clogged line. Tell us which you have when you call. If you’re not sure, check the utility bill: no water charge usually means a well, and no sewer charge usually means septic.

    Storm Season and Your Plumbing

    Hurricane season runs June 1 through November 30. The plumbing side of storm prep is easy to skip and hard to make up for afterward.

    Before a storm

    • Find and test your main shutoff so it isn’t frozen in place when you need it
    • Locate your sewer cleanout and make sure the cap is on tight
    • If you’re evacuating, close the main and turn off the water heater
    • Fill jugs or a clean bathtub for flushing in case service goes out
    • Move stored items off the floor around the water heater

    After a storm

    Check for a boil water notice before drinking from the tap. Before you open the main back up, walk the house and look at the water heater, under the sinks and around the toilets. Then open it slowly and listen for running water.

    If the property flooded, debris can end up in drains and sewer lines, and a water heater or other equipment that sat in floodwater needs to be checked before you rely on it. For drains that won’t clear after a storm, see drain cleaning. For a broken supply line in the yard, see water line repair.

    Seasonal Homes and Snowbird Checklists

    A house that sits empty for months is where a small drip turns into ruined flooring, because nobody is there to notice. Before you leave for the summer:

    • Shut off the main water supply to the house
    • Turn the water heater off, or use its vacation setting if it has one
    • Open a faucet briefly after the main is off to relieve pressure in the lines
    • Ask whoever checks on the house to look under sinks, behind toilets and around the water heater

    When you get back, open the main slowly. On an electric water heater, make sure the tank has refilled before you turn the power back on. Run every sink, tub and shower for a minute to refill the drain traps and clear out air and discolored water.

    Then take a quick look at ceilings and walls near bathrooms. If something looks off, get it checked now. A slow leak left alone for another month does a lot more damage than it did the first week.

    What Happens When You Call Us

    We’d rather ask a few questions up front than show up guessing. On the phone, expect us to ask what you’re seeing, when it started, what kind of property it is, and whether you’re on city water or a well.

    At the visit, the goal is to find the cause before any work starts. That might mean checking the meter, testing fixtures, or looking into a drain line. Once we know what’s going on, we explain it in plain terms and lay out your options, including when a repair makes sense and when replacing something is the better call. You decide how to go forward.

    When the work is finished, we clean up the area we worked in. You can see the kinds of fixes we handle on our plumbing repairs page.

    Homes and Businesses Need Different Things

    The pipe might be the same, but the priorities aren’t. At a house, it’s usually one household, a kitchen and a few bathrooms, and scheduling comes down to when someone can be home. At a restaurant, office, store or multi-unit building, downtime costs money, more people depend on the fixtures, and the work often has to fit around business hours or tenants.

    Homeowners can start with residential plumbing, which links out to bathroom plumbing and kitchen plumbing. Business owners and property managers should head to commercial plumbing.

    Common Questions

    Do you work on homes and businesses?

    Yes, both. See residential and commercial plumbing.

    How can I tell if I have polybutylene pipe?

    It’s usually gray plastic pipe, sometimes blue or black, and it’s often stamped “PB2110.” You’ll typically see it coming out of the wall under sinks or at the water heater. If you’re not sure, we can check.

    Do you install tankless water heaters?

    Yes. We install tankless units and can tell you what your house would need for the switch.

    What areas do you cover?

    Fort Myers, Fort Myers Beach, Cape Coral, Bonita Springs, Naples, Lehigh Acres, North Fort Myers, Estero, Sanibel, Alva, Punta Gorda, Port Charlotte, Golden Gate and Marco Island. More on our service areas page.

    How do I get on the schedule?

    Call (239) 518-4198 or fill out the request form with your city and what’s going on.

    More Questions About Your Plumbing

    Where is my main water shutoff?

    Start at the water meter, usually near the street or the edge of the lot. The utility’s valve is there, though some utilities would rather homeowners not use it. Many homes also have a house-side valve where the line comes up near the foundation, often by the garage or a hose bib. On a well, look near the pressure tank. If you can’t find yours, we can point it out on a visit.

    Can I use chemical drain cleaner?

    We’d skip it. It rarely clears a real blockage, and if the drain stays clogged you’re left with a pipe full of caustic liquid that splashes on whoever opens it next. Harsh chemicals can also be hard on older pipes and on septic systems. For one slow sink, a plunger or cleaning out the trap usually does more. Repeat clogs mean the line needs a proper cleaning.

    How do I know if a leak is on my side of the meter?

    Turn off every fixture and appliance, then watch the meter. If the dial or leak indicator keeps moving, water is going somewhere past the meter, which is generally your side. Next, close your house-side shutoff. If the meter stops, the leak is inside the house. If it keeps moving, it’s likely in the line between the meter and the house.

    Should I turn off my water heater when I leave for the season?

    In most cases, yes. With the main off, no fresh water is coming in, and a heater left on is just cycling for nobody. For electric, switch off the breaker. For gas, use the vacation or pilot setting the manufacturer describes. When you come back, make sure an electric tank is full before turning the power on, since heating an empty tank can burn out the elements.

    Why does my house smell like sewer after I’ve been away?

    Usually it’s dry traps. Every drain has a U-shaped trap that holds water to block sewer gas, and in a closed-up house that water evaporates. Run water in every sink, tub, shower and floor drain for a minute. If the smell hangs around after that, it could be a bad toilet seal, a vent problem or a cracked line, and it’s worth having checked.

    Does it matter whether I’m on a well or septic?

    It does. Low pressure on a well can come from the pump or pressure tank rather than the pipes, and slow drains on septic can mean the tank or drainfield needs attention instead of the drain line. Telling us up front helps us come prepared and keeps us from chasing the wrong problem. If you’re unsure, your utility bill is a good clue.

    Need a plumber?

    Call (239) 518-4198 or send us a request and we’ll get back to you.

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